Continental Z134 Manual
I just finished a complete rebuild of the engine in my 1961 MF35 -.010/.010 crank, rebuilt rods, new clutches, oil pump rebuilt, carb kit, etc. Fired up on the 2nd turn of the engine, but ZERO oil pressure (new gauge and line). My service manual didn't mention packing the pump with Vaseline or grease, but should should I now drop the pan and do this task?
I ran it less than 30 seconds, so damage will be minimal. I removed the gauge and blew back into the tube - no oil in the tube at all. Any suggestion will be appreciated. I just finished a complete rebuild of the engine in my 1961 MF35 -.010/.010 crank, rebuilt rods, new clutches, oil pump rebuilt, carb kit, etc. Fired up on the 2nd turn of the engine, but ZERO oil pressure (new gauge and line).
My service manual didn't mention packing the pump with Vaseline or grease, but should should I now drop the pan and do this task? I ran it less than 30 seconds, so damage will be minimal. I removed the gauge and blew back into the tube - no oil in the tube at all. Any suggestion will be appreciated.
RonIs there a bearing that needs a hole lined up or something for oil to pass thru? I just finished a complete rebuild of the engine in my 1961 MF35 -.010/.010 crank, rebuilt rods, new clutches, oil pump rebuilt, carb kit, etc.
Fired up on the 2nd turn of the engine, but ZERO oil pressure (new gauge and line). My service manual didn't mention packing the pump with Vaseline or grease, but should should I now drop the pan and do this task? I ran it less than 30 seconds, so damage will be minimal. I removed the gauge and blew back into the tube - no oil in the tube at all. Any suggestion will be appreciated.
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Ron Did you rebuild the pump? The Z series Continentals have a real weak sister oil pump. The pick up tube could have seal leak or a crack so the pump won't pick up oil. Did you check out the relief valve on the pump?
It could be stuck open. Did you assemble the engine with assembly lube?
Thirty seconds is a short time to pick up oil from the sump in an empty lube system and pressurize it. I would recommend you remove the spark plugs and motor the engine with the starter to see if you get some oil pressure. It's a good idea to do that on a re-build because you don't put significant loads on the bearings with no compression in the cylinders and you have to fill the oil filter etc. Newly rebuilt pump - the set screw backed out on the old one. Re-drilled and loc-tite in the new set screw. That's what got everything & caused the rebuild in the first place.
New plunger & spring in the relief valve. I TIG welded up the plate for the pump to fill in the gouge caused by the old set screw, then flattened it back out on a surface grinder in our machine shop at work. Assembly lube on all surfaces as well. My first mistake was not leaving the spark plugs out to prime the pump - I always do, but my old age is catching up with me (I retired end of January) & having rebuilt a coupla' hundred engines from a dozen manufacturers over the last 40+ years. Well, I shoulda' remembered the priming part!!! I honestly did NOT expect the engine to start after only a couple of turns, either. I was watching the oil gauge and it really surprised me to hear the engine start so soon.
I dropped the oil pan this afternoon. The rubber seal for the pickup doesn't appear cracked, but I didn't get a new one with the gasket set, so I'll match one at the lical parts house. I think I will also double check my pump rebuild specs. I will just re-do the pump if lash and clearances are not spot on. Again, should I pack with Vaseline? Service manual doesn't say. Newly rebuilt pump - the set screw backed out on the old one.
Re-drilled and loc-tite in the new set screw. That's what got everything & caused the rebuild in the first place. New plunger & spring in the relief valve.
I TIG welded up the plate for the pump to fill in the gouge caused by the old set screw, then flattened it back out on a surface grinder in our machine shop at work. Assembly lube on all surfaces as well. My first mistake was not leaving the spark plugs out to prime the pump - I always do, but my old age is catching up with me (I retired end of January) & having rebuilt a coupla' hundred engines from a dozen manufacturers over the last 40+ years. Well, I shoulda' remembered the priming part!!! I honestly did NOT expect the engine to start after only a couple of turns, either. I was watching the oil gauge and it really surprised me to hear the engine start so soon.
I dropped the oil pan this afternoon. The rubber seal for the pickup doesn't appear cracked, but I didn't get a new one with the gasket set, so I'll match one at the lical parts house.
I think I will also double check my pump rebuild specs. I will just re-do the pump if lash and clearances are not spot on. Again, should I pack with Vaseline? Service manual doesn't say. Thanxit is obvious to me that you are an experienced hand at this and you are approaching the problem very systematically. I applaud you for that!
If the pump is in specs for its internal clearances than it shouldn't require packing with vasoline or grease. If you want to do it while you have it off, by all means do it. It won't hurt anything.
The Ford N series folks use that technique but I'm not too familiar with the details of their lube system since the Z Continentals and the flathead Ford's are quite different engines. The pump should prime itself unless the seal is bad on the pick up or the pickup tube is cracked. Apparently you inspected the pick up parts and they are not leaking as far as you can tell. The only other possibility is a weak spring on the relief valve but even then with cold oil you should have some oil pressure even with an open relief valve. I would try cranking it with spark plugs out for up to a minute at a time and see if it develops pressure.
Continental Z134 Valve Seals
The motor will spin pretty fast with no compression load on it and the pump will really push oil volume out at the higher cranking rpms. The only other thing that comes to mind and I don't even know if it is true for the Z Series Continental. Some lube systems have a welsh plug on the oil gallery and during a major overhaul if that is left out, the lube system won't pressurize.
I'm almost sure that's a Ford issue but I'm not sure and I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase. I just mention it for completeness for the low oil pressure problem. Jerry & grm-The only thing I have figured out so far is that the rubber grommet in the tube us NOT available separate from the tube. $45 for the tube, but that part is OK.
I pulled the pump to remove the plate and found nothing out of sorts. As stated, I welded up the small score marks from the old pump and surface ground it flat & replaced the button & spring in the PRV. Not really a way to run the pump by drill due to the helical gear being the only thing protruding out of the pump. I've always checked for vacuum leaks by blowing smoke back through the system. I did that, and the smoke came out at the oil pump, so no restrictions. I've decided to order another pump rebuild kit and start over. I appreciate all your comments and suggestions.
I will post again when I solve the issue.
Click Either Image to Enlarge (still low res) This 40 page service manual gives you step by step instructions on how to do a complete overhaul of the Ferguson ® Z-134 'Continental' gas engine. Exploded drawings and photographs assist you in the repair and reassembling of this engine.
Continental Z134 Shop Manual
The hyperlinked index allows you to click on the page you want and go directly it. It covers the Engine, Lubrication System, and Cooling System. Carburetors are not covered due to the different combinations used over the years. This engine was used in the following tractors. TO 35, FE 35, MF 35.
Continental Z134 Specs
F40, TO 40. MH50, MF50. MF135 Special. Industrials 202, & 204 PLEASE NOTE If you choose to download this manual, be aware that the file is 2.6 MB. The server allows 2 attempts to download it.
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